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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
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Pacific  Coast  Survey  of 
1849  and  1850 


By  LEWIS  A.  McARTHUR 


PORTLAND,  OREGON 


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"Pacific  Coast  Survey  of  1849  and  1850" 
was  printed  in  the  "Oregon  Historical  Quar- 
terly", volume  XVI,  number  3,  for  Septem- 
ber, 1915. 


T!!3TC:iY 


PACIFIC  COAST  SURVEY  OF  1849  AND  1850 

By  Lewis  A.  McArthur.* 

The  first  survey  of  the  Pacific  Coast  by  the  United  States 
Government  was  made  in  1849  and  1850.  The  field  work  was 
done  principally  by  Lieut.  Commanding"  William  P.  McArthur, 
U.  S.  N.,  and  Lieutenant  Washington  A.  Bartlett,  U.  S.  N.,' 
assistants  in  the  Coast  Survey.  There  are  some  details  of 
the  life  -of  Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur  and  the  work  he 
carried  on  on  the  Pacific  Coast  that  may  be  of  interest  to  stu- 
dents of  Oregon  history. 

William  Pope  McArthur  was  born  on  April  2,  1814,  at  Ste. 
Genevieve,  Missouri.  He  was  the  oldest  child  of  John  and 
Mary  Linn  McArthur.  His  mother  was  a  sister  of  Dr.  Lewis 
Fields  Linn,  who  was  later  to  become  Oregon's  champion  in 
the  United  States  Senate.  Dr.  Linn  took  a  decided  interest 
in  his  nephew,  and  at  the  uncle's  request,  the  youth  was  ap- 
pointed a  midshipman  in  the  United  States  Navy  on  February 
11.  1832.  The  first  few  years  of  his  service  were  spent  in 
the  South  Pacific  Station,  and  in  April,  1837,  he  was  granted 
three  months'  leave.  Two  months  later  he  was  granted  per- 
mission to  attend  the  Naval  School  at  Norfolk,  to  perfect  him- 
self in  his  studies. 

Early  in  the  winter  of  1837-8  the  government  organized  an 
expedition  to  the  Everglades  of  Florida,  and  placed  it  under 
command  of  Lieut.  Commanding  L.  M.  Powell,  U.  S.  N. 
McArthur  served  as  commanding  officer  of  one  of  the  two 
small  vessels  of  the  expedition,  with  the  temporary  title  of 
lieutenant.  The  expedition  was  a  mixed  command  of  sailors, 
soldiers  and   marines.     Among  the  members  was  Joseph   E. 


'The  author  of  this  paper  is  a  grandson  of  William  P.  McArthur  and  a  son 
of  Lewis  Linn    McArthur. 

^Gertrude  Atherton,  in  her  "California,  an  Intimate  History,"  says  that 
Bartlett  was  the  first  American  alcalde  at  Verba  Buena,  and  that  he  changed  the 
name  of  the  village  to   San   Francisco  in   1846. 


o^ 


/ 


<ia— / 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  247 

Johnston,  who  later  became  one  of  the  greatest  generals  of  the 
Confederate  Army.  Johnston  had  graduated  from  West  Point 
in  1829,  served  in  the  Black  Hawk  campaign,  was  stationed 
at  several  forts  along  the  Atlantic  seaboard,  and  in  1836 
accompanied  General  Scott  to  Florida  as  a  member  of  his  staflf. 
Shortly  thereafter  Johnston  resigned  from  the  army,  and  took 
up  the  study  of  civil  engineering.  \\^hen  the  expedition  of 
1837  was  sent  to  the  Everglades,  Johnston  volunteered  to  ac- 
company it  as  topographical  engineer.  Acting  Lieutenant  Mc- 
Arthur  and  Johnston  became  firm  friends,  and  continued  so 
until  the  death  of  the  former.^ 

The  expedition  landed  at  Jupiter  Inlet  about  the  10th  or 
12th  of  January,  1838.  Johnston  and  Mc Arthur  warned 
Powell  as  to  the  tricks  of  Indian  warfare,  but  Powell  would 
not  listen,  and  as  a  result  the  command  was  ambushed,  and 
had  it  not  been  for  the  bravery  and  coolness  of  Johnston,  the 
column  would  have  been  annihilated. 

McArthur  was  badly  wounded  in  both  legs,  and  was  carried 
to  the  boats  by  a  faithful  negro  sailor.  Johnston  kept  the  men 
in  orderly  retreat  and  undoubtedly  prevented  greater  loss  of 
life.  Later  a  surgeon  removed  the  ball  from  one  of  Mc  Arthur's 
legs,  but  the  other  could  not  be  extracted,  and  annoyed  him 
imtil  the  day  of  his  death. 

McArthur  was  sent  to  the  Naval  Llospital  at  Norfolk,  and 
while  recovering,  courted  and  married  Mary  Stone  Young,  on 
May  3,  1838.  Ilis  wife  was  the  daughter  of  Lieutenant  John 
J.  Young,  at  that  time  superintendent  of  the  Naval  Hospital. 
During  the  next  two  years  he  saw  service  on  various  vessels, 
and  on  September  24,  1840,  was  ordered  to  the  brig  Consort, 
detailed  to  the  Coast  Survey.  The  cruise  lasted  over  a  year, 
and  during  that  time  a  survey  was  made  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
From  that  time  on  his  work  was  almost  entirely  with  the  Coast 
Survey,  duty  calling  him  to  nearly  every  nook  and  corner  of 
his  country's  coast  line. 

In  the  fall  of  1848  he  received  the  following  instructions, 


3  "General    Johnston,"    !)>■    Robert    M.    IIuRJics;    Applcton,    1893,    gives    further 
particulars  of   Scott's  campaign,   and   the   expedition   described   here. 


248  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

dated  October  27,  and  signed  by  A.  D.  Bache,*  Superintendent 
U.  S.  Coast  Survey:  "I  have  been  directed  by  the  Treasury 
Department  to  make  arrangements  for  commencing  the  survey 
of  the  Western  Coast  of  the  United  States.  A  land  party  has 
been  for  some  time  organizing  under  the  charge  of  Assist.  Jas. 
S.  Williams.  I  am  directed  also  to  organize  a  hydrographic 
party,  to  accompany  or  speedily  to  follow  the  land  party,  and 
you  have  been  assigned  to  the  command  of  the  party.  You  will 
please  therefore  make  all  preliminary  arrangements  in  con- 
formity with  oral  instructions  already  received,  or  such  as  may 
suggest  themselves  as  proper  to  you  under  circumstances,  ob- 
serving the  usual  routine  in  regard  to  estimates,  etc.  If  no 
more  suitable  vessel  for  your  purpose  can  be  obtained,  the 
Schr.  Ezving,  the  transfer  of  which  from  the  Revenue  Service 
has  been  directed  by  the  Sect'y  of  the  Treasury,  will  be  as- 
signed to  you. 

"The  fitting  out  of  this  vessel  and  her  dispatch  at  as  early 
a  moment  as  practicable  is  desirable,  say  before  the  first  week 
of  November. 

"I  do  not  deem  it  desirable  that  you  should  make  the  voy- 
age in  the  vessel,  as  you  cannot  complete  work  now  in  hand, 
nor  so  well  seize  the  most  prominent  objects  of  the  Western 
work  as  by  making  the  journey  over  the  Isthmus,  and  joining 
the  vessel  at  Panama  or  San  Francisco.  The  specific  duties 
required  of  you  will  be  stated  later  in  instructions. 

"You  are  authorized  to  go  to  New  York  in  connection  with 
the  transfer  of  the  Ezving  at  such  time  as  you  may  deem  best." 

Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur  left  New  York  on  one  of  the 
new  Aspinwall  steamers,  and  in  due  time  landed  at  Chagres. 
The  only  route  across  the  Isthmus  was  up  the  Chagres  River 
in  boats,  and  thence  by  mule  train  over  the  trail  to  Panama. 
Chagres  was  congested  with  a  motley  crowd,  from  all  quarters 
of  the  earth,  making  its  way  to  the  California  gold  fields. 
Among  the  fortune  hunters  were  many  characterless  men,  and 


4  Alexander  iJallas  Bache  was  one  of  America's  foremost  scientists,  and 
was  a  grandson  of  Benjamin  Frinklin.  He  was  born  at  Philadelphia  on  July  19, 
1806,  and  died  at  Newport,  R.  I.,  on  February  17,  1867.  He  served  in  many 
positions  of  note,  and  was  superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey  from  1843  to   1867. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  249 

even  fugitives  from  justice.  They  threw  off  all  restraint,  and 
perpetrated  so  many  crimes,  that  the  authorities  were  power- 
less. Prominent  residents  appealed  to  the  more  responsible 
Americans,  and  asked  their  co-operation  in  putting  down  the 
violence.  Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur  spoke  Spanish  fluent- 
ly and  accurately,  and  this  coupled  with  the  fact  that  he  was 
an  American  officer,  caused  him  to  be  put  at  the  head  of  an 
impromptu  vigilance  committee.  He  and  his  colleagues  took 
the  lead  so  effectively  that  within  forty-eight  hours  the  law- 
lessness was  ended. 

When  he  reached  Panama,  here  too  were  found  many  gold 
seekers,  many  ill  from  fever,  and  the  place  was  over- 
crowded because  of  insufficient  transportation  to  San  Fran- 
cisco.    Passage  tickets  were  commanding  exorbitant  prices. 

Anchored  near  the  island  of  Taboga  was  the  ship  Humboldt, 
500  tons  burden,  owned  by  a  Frenchman.  J.  B.  Ferand,  used 
as  a  store  ship  for  coal,  and  bonded  in  a  large  sum  to  remain 
there  in  that  service.  So  great  was  the  pressure  to  leave 
Panama,  that  a  delegation  waited  on  Ferand,  and  persuaded 
him  to  forfeit  his  bond,  and  send  the  ship  to  San  Francisco, 
if  he  could  secure  four  hundred  passengers  at  $200  each,  and 
providing  that  no  cooked  provisions  were  to  be  furnished  by 
him  except  as  could  be  prepared  "once  a  day  in  a  large  fifty- 
gallon  kettle."  Hot  coffee  was  to  be  distributed  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  hot  tea  in  the  evening,  and  from  the  perusal  of  Lieut. 
Commanding  McArthur's  letters,  it  seems  probable  that  the 
tea  and  coffee  were  prepared  in  the  same  large  kettle  with  the 
meat  and  vegetables. 

Four  hundred  persons  were  found  who  would  ]jay  the  price, 
and  Ferand  had  the  hulk  overhauled.  When  the  Ilumboldt 
was  watered  and  victualled,  Ferand  found  he  had  no  captain, 
and  he  opened  negotiations  with  McArthur,  who  agreed  to 
navigate  the  ship  to  San  Francisco,  in  order  to  clear  the  city 
of  Panama  of  as  many  men  as  possible,  as  the  fever  was  daily 
growing  more  prevalent. 

McArthur  boarded  the  ship  after  the  passengers  were  on 


250  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

board,  and  at  once  saw  that  there  were  more  than  the  con- 
tracted for  number,  and  that  the  ship  was  badly  overcrowded. 
He  made  an  investigation  that  showed  that  Ferand  had  sold 
four  hundred  and  eighty  tickets.  He  ordered  the  last  eighty 
passengers  to  go  ashore,  and  proceeded  to  enforce  the  order 
without  delay.  Fortunately  a  British  brig^  put  into  Panama 
that  day  and  her  captain  was  willing  to  take  the  rejected  pas- 
sengers at  the  same  rate. 

The  Humboldt  sailed  on  May  21,  1849.  Lieut.  Commanding 
McArthur  enforced  strict  discipline,  as  being  the  only  means 
of  securing  safety  and  comfort  of  the  passengers  and  crev*'. 
Among  the  former  was  Collis  P.  Huntington,  for  many  years 
president  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company.  In  the  spring  of 
1890,  he  recounted  to  Lewis  Linn  McArthur,  the  third  son 
of  Wm.  P.  McArthur,  some  of  incidents  of  the  trip.  He 
stated  that  there  was  one  exceptionally  turbulent  fellow  aboard, 
who  endeavored  to  provoke  a  quarrel  with  him,  and  threatened 
other  passengers.  When  this  reached  Lieut.  Commanding 
McArthur's  ears,  he  immediately  sought  out  the  disturber, 
and  cautioned  him  not  to  repeat  his  annoyances.  The  man 
resented  this  violently  and  McArthur  immediately  took  his 
weapons  from  him  and  had  him  put  in  irons.  In  a  few  days 
his  spirits  had  cooled,  and  he  asked  for  pardon  and  promised 
that  there  would  be  no  more  troublesome  conduct  on  his  part. 

The  passage  was  very  slow,  requiring  forty-eight  days  to 
reach  Acapulco.  When  the  Humboldt  reached  that  port  the 
passengers  and  crew  were  almost  famished  because  of  a  short- 
age of  food  and  water. 

After  a  week's  delay,  the  Humboldt  proceeded  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, which  port  she  reached  in  due  time. 

By  the  middle  of  September,  1849,  the  Ezving  had  arrived 
from  New  York,  and  Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur  was  in- 
stalled aboard,  but  no  sooner  had  he  prepared  for  operations, 
than  an  incident  occurred  which  gave  him  great  annoyance. 


S  Julius  H.  Pratt,  in  the  "Century  Magazine"  for  April,  1891,  gives  an  account 
of  his  trip  to  California  in  1849,  and  describes  the  voyage  of  the  Humboldt  in 
greater  detail.  He  states  that  the  British  brig  that  arrived  so  opportunely  was  the 
Corbiere. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  251 

While  the  schooner  was  lying  in  San  Pablo  Bay,  Past  Mid- 
shipman Gibson  was  ordered  ashore  for  some  purpose,  taking 
five  men  and  a  boat.  When  the  boat  had  proceeded  some  dis- 
tance and  the  men  thought  themselves  out  of  sight  of  the 
Ezmng,  they  seized  Gibson  and  threw  him  overboard,  and 
made  for  the  nearest  shore.  Fortunately  McArthur  was  look- 
ing through  his  glasses  at  the  time,  and  saw  the  whole  occur- 
rence. He  dispatched  a  boat  to  the  relief  of  Gibson,  who  was 
rescued,  and  the  deserters  were  overtaken  and  captured.  They 
were  tried  by  court  martial,  and  two  were  condemned  to  be 
hanged,  and  lashes  were  ordered  for  the  other  three,  as  was 
the  custom  in  those  days.  One  of  the  leaders,  John  Black  by 
name,  was  hanged  on  board  the  Eit/ing.  In  all  of  his  letters 
McArthur  mentions  the  inability  to  get  men  to  carry  on  the 
survey,  which  was  greatly  delayed,  and  this  fact  discouraged 
him  sorely  at  times.  The  high  wages  and  allurements  of  the 
gold  fields  kept  men  from  entering  the  government  service  at 
a  few  dollars  a  month,  and  such  men  as  could  be  secured  were 
generally  worthless. 

San  Francisco  was  in  the  midst  of  the  gold  excitement,  and 
in  a  letter  dated  September  23,  1849,  McArthur  wrote  to  his 
father-in-law,  John  J.  Young,  who  was  now  a  commander  in 
the  Navy,  as  follows:  "People  are  still  crowding  here  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  and  everybody  seems  to  be  as  crazy  as  ever, 
but  good  order  seems  to  prevail,  and  you  w(ju1(1  Ijc  surprised 
to  see  how  quietly  business  is  carried  on — everything  ship- 
shape and  orderly.  There  is  already  a  good  police  in  San 
Francisco,  and  the  same  was  established  yesterday  in  Sacra- 
mento City,  so  if  a  Vagabond  comes  out  here  to  cut  up  his 
capers,  he  is  quite  mistaken. 

"There  is  no  especial  news  here  except  that  the  convention 
for  forming  a  state  and  state  laws  has  been  in  session  for  some 
time,  and  have  acquitted  themselves  with  great  dignity  and 
good  sense.  They  will  have  good,  wholesome  laws,  1  have 
no  doubt. 

"The  joint  commission  for  the  selection  of  sites  for  Fortifi- 


252  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

cations,  Navy  Yards,  Docks,  etc.,  etc.,  are  all  here  on  board 
the  Massachusetts.  They  are  without  men  and  have  done  ab- 
solutely nothing.  They  have  borrowed  some  men  from  the 
Commodore^  to  enable  them  to  run  over  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands  and  ship  a  crew.  .  .  .  It  is  asserted  that  the  islands 
are  nearly  depopulated  already.  I  hope  seamen  may  be  had 
there,  as  I  may  be  compelled  to  recruit  there  myself." 

On  October  26,  1849,  Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur  wrote 
to  Commander  Young,  dating  his  letter  from  San  Pablo  Bay. 
Among  other  things  he  says : 

"This  country  is  truly  one  of  the  greatest  wonders  of  any 
age.  The  increase  of  population  is  truly  wonderful.  Let  us 
estimate  San  Francisco  at  100,000  souls,  Sacramento  City 
40,000,  and  Stockton  35,000  or  nearly.  Eighteen  months  ago 
there  was  scarcely  100  people  in  all  three.  There  [are]  many 
other  places  springing  up  into  importance,  and  I  am  now 
making  a  survey  of  a  place  where  great  improvements  must 
take  place.  But  as  it  is  an  island,  it  will  probably  be  reserved 
by  Government,  and  I  presume  to  think  that  it  will  be  the 
site  for  the  Navy  Yard. 

"As  soon  as  I  get  through  with  this  work,  I  will  go  on  a 
cruise  of  reconnaissance  to  the  nortliward,  and  hope  to  be  re- 
paid by  some  discoveries.  At  all  events,  I  would  be  pleased 
to  leave  San  Francisco  for  a  time. 

"Captain  Williams  has  not  been  able  to  do  any  work  for 
want  of  hands — his  men  all  left  him  but  one,  and  he  is  waiting 
to  know  whether  he  may  be  authorized  to  give  California 
prices  for  assistants.  He  expects  to  hear  from  the  Superin- 
tendent on  the  subject  by  the  next  steamer.  The  joint  com- 
mission for  Yards,  Docks,  Fortifications,  etc.,  are  used  up. 
They  are  on  board  the  Massachusetts,  and  will  go  to  the 
Islands  (Sandwich)  in  a  few  days  for  men.     I  may  go  there 


6  Captain  Thomas  ap  Catesby  Jones,  who  had  the  frigate  Sa'i'annali  as  his 
flagship.  He  commanded  the  American  naval  forces  in  the  battle  with  the  British 
near  New  Orleans  in  December,  1814,  and  it  wis  he  who  made  tlie  premature 
attempt  to  capture  Monterey,  California,  on  October  19,  1842.  When  he  found 
that  the  United  States  and  Mexico  were  not  at  war,  and  that  California  had  not 
been  ceded  to   England,  he  withdrew  his  landing  party. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  253 

also  bye  and  bye  to  run  away  from  the  incessant  rains  which 
are  said  to  prevail  with  winter. 

"[October]  27th.  Today  I  commence  work  investigating 
the  conveniences  and  inconveniences  of  Mares  Island  Straits 
with  a  view  of  ascertaining  whether  it  would  be  a  suitable 
place  for  a  Xavy  Yard.  I  sincerely  believe  it  to  be  the  only 
good  place  in  the  whole  bay.  The  weather  is  still  warm  and 
pleasant — much  more  so  than  in  August.  Thousands  of  geese 
and  brandts  cover  the  hills  in  every  direction,  eating  the  wild 
oats,  and  the  Coyotl,  a  small  animal  resembling  a  Fox,  spoken 
of  by  Prescott  (see  Conquest  of  Mexico),  is  also  very  abund- 
ant. 

"I  am  very  much  surprised  to  find  so  few  fish  here.  We 
have  not  caught  the  first  one,  and  yet  they  are  very  abundant 
further  up  the  Rivers." 

In  December  the  Ezmng  made  an  extended  trip  to  the 
Hawaiian  Islands.  Previous  to  his  departure  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, McArthur  was  deeply  concerned  about  his  health,  but 
the  beneficial  climate  of  the  islands  restored  him  to  his  natural 
condition,  and  he  returned  to  San  Francisco  early  in  1850, 
greatly  improved  in  body  and  in  spirit. 

This  same  spring,  however,  brought  new  disappointments  to 
Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur.  Interested  as  he  was  in  the 
Coast  Survey,  the  desultory  way  in  which  the  government  car- 
ried on  the  work  discouraged  him.  For  weeks  the  Ewi)ig  lay 
idle  in  San  Francisco  Bay,  while  the  government  refused  to 
pay  the  wages  demanded  by  sailors.  Few  if  any  could  be 
secured  at  the  small  pay  offered  by  the  Department.  McArthur 
chafed  at  the  delays,  and  finally  after  much  labor  the  vacancies 
in  the  crew  were  filled,  and  on  April  3,  1850,  the  Ezuing 
sailed  out  of  the  Golden  Gate  headed  for  a  reconnaissance  of 
the  northern  coasts. 

Just  before  leaving  for  the  northern  coasts  McArthur  wrote 
to  Commanrlcr  Young,  dating  his  letter  late  in  March.  In 
addition  to  certain  family  matters,  he  wrote  as  follows:  "I  have 
made  up  my  mind  to  be  disappointed  with  regard  to  the  prob- 


254  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

ability  of  our  usefulness  on  this  coast.  Capt.  Williams  has 
as  yet  done  nothing  and  Heaven  only  knows  when  he  may  be 
able  to  proceed  with  his  labors.  I  have  abandoned  the  hope 
of  his  being  able  to  do  anything.  I  feel  confident  that  no 
work  can  go  on  at  the  present  wages  of  the  country  as  it 
would  require  the  whole  of  the  Coast  Survey  appropriation  to 
keep  a  party  together.  Wages  are  still  from  five  to  twelve 
dollars  per  day,  and  if  anything  still  rising  as  the  mining  sea- 
son opens.  I  have  written  to  the  Professor  and  laid  my  views 
fully  before  him. 

"In  a  few  days  I  go  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River  and 
shall  make  a  reconnaissance  of  the  coast  both  on  my  way  up 
and  returning.  I  propose  also  to  choose  Points  for  a  Light 
house,  Buoys,  etc.,  at  the  mouth  of  that  river.  I  shall  then 
be  at  the  end  of  my  tether.  It  will  take  about  3  months  to 
perform  what  is  at  present  required  of  me  and  the  Superin- 
tendent in  that  time  will  perceive  how  utterly  vain  it  is  to 
think  of  carrying  on  work  here.  I  am  now  under  the  im- 
pression that  we  may  be  recalled  or  ordered  to  disband  here 
in  less  than  six  months. 

"The  country  is  improving  very  much  in  this  vicinity  and 
I  do  not  doubt  but  that  San  Francisco  will  be  a  large  and 
beautiful  city,  already  it  has  its  public  Square  and  churches 
and  other  Public  Buildings  which  give  it  an  air  of  importance. 
The  country  is  becoming  daily  more  settled  and  improved,  but 
not  so  much  as  might  be  supposed  from  the  great  number  of 
immigrants." 

On  April  13  he  wrote  Commander  Young  from  Trinidad  Bay 
as  follows:  "I  may  safely  say  that  the  only  happy  days  I  have 
spent  in  the  country  have  been  spent  since  we  started.  I  am  at 
last  at  work  and  most  usefully  employed  in  making  a  recon- 
naissance of  the  Coast  as  we  go  up.  Great  success  has  so  far 
attended  the  undertaking,  and  I  must  say  that  I  shall  have 
good  cause  to  congratulate  myself  if  I  am  permitted  to  com- 
plete the  work  to  the  Columbia  River.     I  am  operating  on  my 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  255 

own  hook  (as  the  saying  is)   Capt.  Williams  being  unable  to 
obtain  men  with  which  to  operate. 

"We  have  completed  a  very  correct  outline  of  the  coast,  its 
headlands,  Bays,  Rivers  and  indentations  from  San  Francisco 
to  this  place,  as  well  as  carrying  on  our  soundings  as  we  go, 
and  the  results  are  such  as  to  please  me  very  much.  We  have 
discovered  many  important  errors  in  the  charts  of  the  coast,  and 
shall  probably  discover  greater  discrepancies  as  we  go  to  the 
north,  as  less  is  pretended  to  be  known  of  the  country  in  that 
direction. 

"I  shall  start  from  here  tomorrow  and  shall  stop  at  Pt. 
Georges,  distant  about  40  miles  to  the  northward  of  this  place. 
.  .  .  There  are  also  vessels  there  and  a  settlement  has  been 
made.  Rogues  or  Klamet  River  is  my  next  stopping  place,  after 
that  then  the  Columbia.  I  may  be  detained  at  point  Georges  Pt. 
some  days,  as  I  shall  endeavor  to  secure  the  bodies  of  Lieuten- 
ants Ricd.  Bache  and  Robert  L.  Browning,  who  were  drowned 
at  that  place.^ 

McArthur's  next  letter  to  Commander  Young  is  dated  As- 
toria, Oregon  Territory,  June  3,  1850.  Among  other  things 
he  says : 

"We  are  now  in  Oregon,  where  I  shall  remain  until  I  re- 
ceive further  instructions  or  orders.  I  hope  such  will  be  given 
me  as  will  permit  us  to  proceed  at  once  to  work.  We  can 
live  better  and  cheaper  here  than  in  any  part  of  the  coast.  The 
salmon  is  fine  and  abundant,  but  not  so  good  as  the  shad. 
Butter  is  plenty  at  62  to  75  cts  pr.  Ih..  fresh  beef  20  cts.  pr. 
lb.  The  climate  is  agreeable  and  healthy.  The  water  is  not 
inferior  to  any  in  the  world.  The  face  of  the  country  is  too 
uneven  to  permit  as  general  cultivation,  still  it  will  and  must 
soon  become  a  great  agricultural  and  stock  growing  country. 


7  Lieutenant  Richard  Hache  and  Lieutenant  Ri)t)crl  L.  lirowninft  were  drowned 
on  the  northwest  coast  of  California  on  March  27,  1850,  while  in.'ikinK  some  special 
surveying  investigations.  Lieutenant  liache  was  the  younger  brother  of  Professor 
Bache. 


256  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

The  scenery  is  beautiful  and  in  some  places  and  some  points  of 
view  the  grandest  that  the  eye  ever  beheld.^ 

"Lt.  Blunt  who  is  now  with  me  has  traveled  considerably 
through  the  country  and  is  so  much  pleased  with  it,  that  he  has 
taken  a  section  of  land  and  made  a  regular  claim  to  it,  he  has 
also  taken  one  for  myself  and  one  for  Lt.  Bartlett,  both  ad- 
joining his  !  What  do  you  think  of  that?  I  intend  to  have  my 
claim  registered  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  and 
protect  it  as  long  as  I  may  be  on  the  coast.  I  may  be  able  to 
sell  it  this  fall  to  the  emigrants.  It  lies  in  the  Willammette  Val- 
ley and  is  represented  to  be  a  beautiful  location.  If  I  could 
hold  it  for  5  years  it  would  be  a  fortune. 

"You  can  scarcely  imagine  the  change  in  the  prospects  of 
this  country  since  the  discovery  of  the  new  south  channel,  and 
the  arrival  for  the  first  time  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamers. 
Property  has  advanced  materially,  and  points  along  the  river 
are  of  much  importance,  which  have  hither  passed  unnoticed. 

"The  greatest  difficulty  existing  here  at  present  is  the  want 
of  acts  of  Congress  to  define  the  extent  of  land  claims  and  to 
regulate  all  matters  attending  the  surveying  and  giving  titles, 
etc.  Nothing  exists  in  the  shape  of  law.  There  already  exists 
much  confusion,  which  is  not  likely  to  decrease  till  laws  be 
passed. 

"The  great  probability  is  that  Oregon  will  develop  more 
rapidly  for  the  next  ten  years  than  any  other  part  of  the 
United  States  except  California.  You  will  soon  be  startled 
with  the  cry  that  gold  is  found  in  Oregon.  I  have  no  doubt 
of  its  existence  myself.  It  has  already  been  found  as  far  north 
as  Rogues  River  and  the  mines  on  that  River  are  being  worked 
successfully.  Several  exploring  expeditions  are  scouring  the 
different  directions.  Their  return  is  looked  for  with  intense 
interest.    You  may  depend  upon  receiving  letters  by  every  op- 


8  Among  those  who  made  the  trip  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Columbia  River 
on  the  Eiving  was  William  H.  Packwood,  now  of  Baker,  Oregon,  who  is  the  sole 
survivor  of  the  Oregon  Constitutional  Convention  of  1857.  Judge  Packwood  was 
one  of  a  small  party  of  the  First  U.  S.  Mounted  Rifles  that  was  transported  from 
San  Francisco  to  Oregon  in  the  Eiving.  For  his  description  of  the  trip,  see  the 
Oregonian   lor   February   20,    19 15. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  257 

portunity,  but  especially  now  by  the  regular  mails.  I  do  not 
like  to  trust  my  letters  to  ships.  They  are  neglected  and  lost." 
On  July  16,1850,  McArthur  wrote  Commander  Young  as 
follows  from  Astoria:  "Since  I  last  wrote  you  I  have  been 
all  through  Puget's  Sound,  Hoods  Canal,  Admiralty  Inlet, 
etc.,  etc.  I  went  over  in  the  Steamer  Carolina.  We  stopped 
at  Victoria  on  Vancouver  Island,  and  spent  a  very  pleasant 
night  with  Governor  Douglas  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
In  the  morning  we  went  over  the  farm,  visited  the  dairy,  and 
garden  and  fields.  Everything  wore  a  charming  aspect.  The 
wilderness  is  now  in  its  incipient  smile.  In  a  few  years  it 
will  increase  to  a  broad  grin. 

"The  waters  of  the  sound  are  a  strange  and  peculiar  anomaly. 
The  deep  blue  sea  runs  up  inland  passing  between  straits  but 
half  a  mile  wide  with  a  depth  of  over  an  hundred  fathoms. 
Bays,  Harbours,  Inlets  and  Roads  startle  you  at  every  turn- 
ing, forming  a  perfect  labyrinth.  We  journeyed  on  to  Nis- 
qually  in  the  steamer  and  there  I  took  possession  of  the  "Ship 
Albion"  siezed  by  the  collector  of  the  district.  She  was  siezed 
for  a  most  flagrant  violation  of  the  revenue  laws  and  also  for 
committing  depredations  on  our  timber,  etc.,  etc.  I  would 
have  brought  her  here  but  could  not  obtain  a  crew.  We  then 
came  across  the  country  traveling  through  a  splendid  grazing 
country  for  the  first  24  miles.  Our  horses  being  tired,  we 
tarried  'till  morning  with  an  old  Missourian.  The  next  day 
we  reached  the  Cowlitz,  traveling  all  day  through  the  most 
excellent  farming  country  I  have  ever  beheld.  We  staid  all 
night  at  the  house  of  an  old  Canadian  who  treated  us  very 
kindly.  We  started  the  next  day  in  a  canoe  down  the  Cowlitz 
and  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  without  accident, 
where  I  found  I  had  been  absent  from  the  Raving  just  one 
month!  I  found  the  sweet  little  craft  all  right.  Whilst  at 
Nisqually  we  spent  4  days  at  the  farm  of  the  Puget's  Sound 
Agricultural  Society,  and  witnessed  the  interesting  process  of 
the  shearing  of  ten  thousand  sheep ! 

"We  have  now  nearly  completed  our  work  here  and  will  soon 


258  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

top  our  boom  southward  reconnoitering  the  coast  toward  San 
Francisco,  stopping-  there  for  provisions,  etc.,  etc.  From  there 
we  shall  go  to  Point  Conception  and  perhaps  San  Diego. 

"Notwithstanding  the  unfavorable  circumstances  under 
which  we  have  labored,  we  shall  have  obtained  many  very  im- 
portant results  and  now  we  have  a  land  party  under  way  we 
wall  proceed  more  rapidly.  This  winter  I  shall  perhaps  be  at 
San  Diego,  and  the  next  by  the  blessing  of  God  I  shall  be  at 

home." 

The  next  letter  is  dated  at  San  Francisco,  August  27.  "We 
arrived  here  safely  on  the  22nd.  from  a  cruise  along  the  coast. 
We  have  been  successful  in  surveying  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia River  and  up  the  same  as  far  as  Astoria.  You  will  be 
surprised  when  I  tell  you  that  the  dangers  of  the  navigation 
of  this  truly  magnificent  river  have  been  vastly  exaggerated. 
We  have  crossed  the  bar  sometimes  as  many  as  ten  times  a 
day  for  weeks  together.  More  vessels  have  visited  the  Co- 
lumbia within  the  last  year  than  perhaps  ever  before  and  not 
the  slightest  accident  has  occurred.  We  have  completed  our 
work  faithfully.  I  feel  sure  the  Superintendent  will  feel  as 
much  gratified  as  I  do. 

"On  our  way  from  the  Columbia  River  we  were  successful 
enough  to  make  a  good  reconnaissance  of  the  whole  coast 
from  Cape  Disappointment  to  this  place  and  the  limits  of 
error  may  be  estimated  at  one  mile  in  longitude  and  an  >4 
mile  in  latitude.  This  I  consider  quite  a  triumph.  We  visited 
every  river,  bay  and  headland,  and  in  fact  sailed  nine-tenths 
of  the  way  within  half  a  mile  of  the  shore,  anchoring  every 
night  and  resuming  our  work  in  the  morning.  My  fame  (if 
any  be  merited)  will  rest  upon  this  reconnaissance.  I  most 
heartily  wish  I  could  send  you  a  copy  of  it.^  The  scale  is  ten 
times  as  large  as  that  of  Captain  Wilkes  and  every  accessory 
has  been  successfully  attended  to. 


9  The  three  sheets  of  the  Pacific  Coast  reconnaissance  chart  were  engraved, 
printed  and  published  in  20  working  days  from  tlie  time  the  drawings  v/ere  first 
received  at  the  Coast  Survey  Office  in  Washington — a  remarkable  record.  fhey 
are  on  a  scale  of  about  1-850,000  or  approximately  i  inch  to  13.5  miles.  Jhey 
may  be  found  in  the  volume  of  accompanying  papers  to  the  annual  report  of  the 
Superintendent  of   the   Coast   Survey   for    1851. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  259 

"Upon  my  return  here  I  find  San  Francisco  very  much  im- 
proved. The  Bay  is  ahve  with  steamers  of  every  size  and 
beautiful  brick  buildings  adorn  many  of  the  streets.  Busi- 
ness is  quite  lively  and  the  El  Dorado  is  flourishing  rapidly." 

On  September  15  McArthur  wrote  from  San  Francisco: 
"For  my  own  part  I  do  not  deem  a  geodetic  survey  required  at 
present.  A  reconnaissance  and  the  establishment  of  Latitudes 
and  Longitudes  of  the  principal  points,  headlands  Bays,  an- 
chorages, harbors,  etc.,  with  a  selection  of  points  for  Light- 
houses and  Buoys  and  general  Sailing  directions  would  in  my 
opinion  meet  the  present  exigencies  and  would  enable  us  to 
investigate  the  manner,  the  best  manner,  of  operating  for  the 
future.  I  have  already  expressed  myself  in  these  terms  to  the 
Supdt.  and  I  believe  his  opinion  coincides  with  mine. 

"Every  day  almost  I  meet  some  friend  or  acquaintance  from 
the  States.  Dr.  Rutter,  and  Dr.  Willson,i"  a  young  brother  of 
Holt,  is  also  here  as  well  as  several  others  from  Portsmouth. 
Washington  is  also  represented  and  at  the  Columbia  River  1 
met  two  troupes  of  Artisans  from  Baltimore,  all  old  acquaint- 
ances. 

"Commodore  Jones  is  in  many  respects  the  finest  naval  offi- 
cer I  have  ever  met.  In  point  of  foresight  and  good  judg- 
ment he  surpasses  any." 

On  October  13,  1850,  he  wrote:  "Since  my  arrival  from 
Oregon  I  have  been  very  busily  engaged  in  preparing  our 
work  and  reports  for  the  past  season  and  will  comjjlete  every- 
thing tomorrow  and  place  all  in  the  hands  of  Lieut.  W.  A. 
Bartlett,  who  is  charged  with  the  charts,  etc.,  and  takes  them 
on  to  Washington."  Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur,  in  this 
letter  described  briefly  his  visit  to  the  Hawaiian  Lslands  the 
year  before  and  his  entertainment  at  the  hands  of  Ilis  Hawaiian 
Majesty  Kamehameha  HI.  McArthur  mentions  the  fact  that 
by  this  time  wages  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisco  were  grad- 
ually resuming  normal  figures.  On  Ocobcr  31  he  wrote  of  the 
gloom  cast  over  the  city  by  the  bursting  of  the  boilers  of  the 


10  Dr.    R.    B.    Wilson,   for  many  years  a  prominent  ohysician   •>!    I'ortland. 


260  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

Mariposa,  which  killed  some  30  persons.  He  had  now  been 
away  from  home  for  two  years,  and  the  departure  of  Bartlett, 
together  with  the  knowledge  that  he  would  be  away  from  his 
family  for  another  year  at  least  doubtless  prayed  on  his  mind, 
but  on  November  21  he  received  welcome  news  from  Professor 
Bache  to  the  effect  that  a  contract  was  being  signed  for  a 
225-ton  steamer^i  for  the  Pacific  Coast  work.  McArthur  was 
directed  to  return  to  Washington  at  once  to  examine  the  vessel 
and  prepare  plans  for  the  season  of  1851.  Under  these  flat- 
tering circumstances  and  overjoyed  at  the  prospect  of  so  soon 
seeing  the  family  he  had  for  so  long  been  separated  from,  he 
set  sail  from  San  Francisco  for  Panama  on  the  Oregon,  on 
December  1.  Alas,  he  was  never  to  reach  his  home.  When 
but  shortly  out  of  San  Francisco  an  acute  attack  of  dysentery 
prostrated  him  completely,  and  despite  medical  assistance  he 
died  on  December  23,  1850,  just  as  the  Oregon  was  entering 
Panama  harbor.  He  was  buried  on  the  Island  of  Taboga.  In 
1867  his  remains  were  moved  to  the  Mare  Island  Navy  Yard 
by  Lieut.  Commander  McDougall. 

On  February  8,  1851,  the  members  of  the  Coast  Survey  met 
in  Washington  to  pay  tribute  to  the  memory  of  William  Pope 
McArthur.  Professor  Bache  and  Brevet  Major  Isaac  I. 
Stevens,  U.  S.  Engineers,  who  was  at  that  time  attached  to  the 
Coast  Survey,  addressed  the  meeting  and  appropriate  resolu- 
tions were  passed.  Professor  Bache's  words  perhaps  best 
summed  up  the  work  of  Lieutenant  Commanding  McArthur, 
and  showed  the  feelings  of  the  Survey  toward  the  deceased 
officer.    Professor  Bache  said  : 

We  are  met  here,  as  you  all  know,  to  pay  a  melancholy  tribute 
of  friendship  and  respect  to  one  who  was  dear  to  us  all — dear  as  a 
brother  to  many  of  us.  Instead  of  greeting  his  arrival  among  us  as 
we  had  fondly  hoped,  in  health,  in  the  full  flush  of  success,  we  meet 
to  mourn  together  over  his  loss  from  our  band.  The  work  which 
he  has  accomplished  will  live  forever.    Surrounded  by  circumstances 


II  The  Conuin.  Before  the  vessel  was  coinpleted  it  was  decided  th  it  time 
could  be  saved  bv  sending  the  steamer  Jefferson  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  Jefferson 
was  dismantled  in  a  gale  off  Patagonia,  and  had  to  be  abandoned.  It,  therefore, 
became  necessary  to  send  the  Corwin  after  all. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  261 

the  most  difficult,  perhaps,  which  ever  tried  the  constancy,  the 
judgment,  the  resources  of  any  hydrographer,  he  vanquished  cir- 
cumstances. His  reconnoissance  of  the  western  coast,  from  Mon- 
terey to  Columbia  river,  and  his  preliminary  survey  there,  were 
made  in  spite  of  desertion,  and  even  mutiny;  in  despite  of  the  in- 
adequacy of  means  to  meet  the  truly  extraordinary  circumstances 
of  the  country.  Happy  that  in  his  officers  he  had  friends  devoted 
to  him  and  to  their  duty,  especially  happy  in  the  officer  next  to 
him  in  the  responsibilities  of  the  work. 

Prostrated  by  an  attack  of  fever  of  a  malignant  type,  contracted 
while  preparing  his  vessel  for  sea,  Lieutenant  McArthur  neverthe- 
less persisted  in  volunteering  for  the  charge  of  the  hj-drographical 
party  on  the  western  coast.  A  subsequent  relapse  did  not  abate  his 
determination  to  enter  as  a  pioneer  upon  this  arduous  service, 
trying  alike  to  his  powers  of  mind  and  body.  Steady  in  the  midst 
of  excitement,  he  laid  his  plans  in  the  way  to  command  success. 
Seizing  the  peculiar  wants  of  the  hydrography  of  that  coast,  he 
applied  all  his  energies  to  supply  them.  The  gratitude  of  his  fellow- 
citizens  there  is  already  his;  the  praise  of  a  new  country,  the  re- 
sources of  which  he  had  aided  in  developing. 

He  has  been  called  away  just  as  his  wishes  were  realized,  ample 
means  provided,  and  the  first  and  worst  difficulties  overcome.  In 
his  letters  and  reports  he  urged  strongly  the  necessity  for  enlarged 
appropriations,  and  for  a  steam  vessel  for  the  hydrography.  His 
last  letters  from  this  office  brought  him  news  that  both  his  wishes 
were  gratified,  and  called  him  home  to  make  the  enlarged  arrange- 
ments for  continuing  his  work.  The  arrival  of  Mr.  Cutts  with 
instructions,  as  late  as  the  beginning  of  October,  confirmed  the 
necessity  of  his  return,  and  he  took  passage  in  the  steamer  Oregon, 
commanded  by  his  friend.  Lieutenant  Patterson. 

An  attack  of  dysentery  prostrated  him  completely,  and  from  this, 
in  spite  of  the  best  medical  attendance,  of  such  nursing  and  attend- 
ance as  only  the  circumstances  to  which  I  have  referred  could  in- 
sure, he  rallied  but  for  a  time,  and  sunk  to  his  final  rest  before  he 
could  be  landed  at  Panama.  His  remains  were  consigned  to  a 
foreign  soil,  to  be  brought,  let  us  hope,  to  his  country,  where  all 
his  affections  centered. 

He  has  not  lived  in  vain.  His  name  will  ever  be  bright  in  tlic 
annals  of  our  Survey,  whether  in  the  more  usual  labors  on  our 
.Atlantic  coast,  or  as  the  pioneer  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 
Always  advancing  as  life  advanced — the  last  his  crowning  work. 

Professor  Bache  having  concluded  his  remarks,  Lieut.  Wash- 
ington A.  Bartlett,  U.  S.  N.,  arose  and  said: 

Mr.  Chairman  and  Gentlemen:     After  the  appropriate  and  feel- 


262  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

ing  remarks  of  the  chairman,  it  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  add  more 
than  to  say  that  when  I  left  Captain  McArthur  on  the  western 
coast  he  was  in  excellent  health  and  buoyant  spirits,  in  view  of 
what  had  been,  and  what  he  hoped  yet  to  accomplish.  It  was 
my  good  fortune  to  be  long  associated  with  him.,  and  that  associa- 
tion caused  me  to  love  him  as  a  brother.  I  will  not  detain  you, 
but  offer  the  following  resolutions  for  your  consideration: 

1.  Resolved,  That  the  civilians  and  ofificers  of  the  army  and 
navy  engaged  on  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  now  assembled 
in  Washington,  have  received  with  feelings  of  deep  emotion  the 
melancholy  intelligence  of  the  death  of  Lieut.  Commanding  Wm. 
P.  McArthur,  U.  S.  Navy,  Assistant  in  the  Coast  Survey;  and  that 
in  his  sudden  and  unexpected  decease  the  navy  has  lost  one  of 
its  most  gallant  and  accomplished  officers,  and  the  Coast  Survey 
one  of  its  most  zealous  and  efficient  laborers. 

2.  Resolved,  That  the  successful  reconnoissance  of  the  western 
coast  of  the  United  States,  from  Monterey  to  Columbia  river,  and 
the  preliminary  survey  of  the  entrance  to  the  Columbia,  accom- 
plished under  the  most  peculiar  and  extraordinary  diffculties,  while 
they  are  proofs  of  his  unconquerable  energy,  determination,  and 
skill,  have  forever  identified  the  name  of  Wm.  P.  McArthur  with 
the  progress  of  the  Republic  in  the  West. 

3.  Resolved,  That  we  most  sincerely  sympathize  with  the 
bereaved  and  afflicted  family  of  our  generous  and  warm-hearted 
friend  in  their  irreparable  loss,  and  commend  the  widow  and  or- 
phans to  the  gratitude  of  the  Republic  to  whose  service  the  hus- 
band and  father  was  so  ardently  devoted  throughout  his  life. 

4.  Resolved,  That  Professor  A.  D.  Bache,  Superintendent  of  the 
United  States  Coast  Survey;  Brevet  Major  I.  I.  Stevens,  of  the 
United  States  Engineers;  Lieutenant  M.  Woodhull,  of  the  United 
States  Navy;  Mr.  J.  J.  Ricketts,  of  the  United  States  Coast  Sur- 
vey, and  Passed  Midshipman  R.  M.  Cuyler,  of  the  United  States 
Navy,  be  a  committee  to  take  the  necessary  measures  to  have 
erected,  in  the  Congressional  burying  ground,  a  suitable  monu- 
ment commemorative  of  the  services  and  virtues  of  the  deceased. 

5.  Resolved,  That  a  copy  of  these  resolutions  be  communicated 
to  the  Navy  and  Treasury  Departments,  with  a  request  that  they 
be  placed  on  the  files,  and  also  to  the  family  of  the  deceased,  and 
that  they  be  published. 

6.  Resolved,  That  the  officers  of  the  Coast  Survey  will  wear 
a  badge  of  mourning  for  thirty  days  in  further  testimony  of  their 
regard  for  the  memory  of  the  late  Lieutenant  Commanding  Wil- 
liam  P.   McArthur. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  263 

Major  Stevens,  in  seconding  the  resolution,  addressed  the  meet- 
ing as  follows: 

I  rise,  Mr.  Chairman,  in  the  name  of  one  of  the  co-ordinate 
services  associated  on  duty  here,  to  pay  a  tribute  to  the  memory 
of  Lieut.  McArthur.  I  can  add  nothing  to  the  remarks  that  have 
been  already  made.  I  simply  propose  to  pay  a  tribute  of  feeling 
and  respect. 

It  was  not  my  fortune  to  know  Lieut.  McArthur  personally. 
But  I  feel  that  I  know  him  well  through  his  works.  They  hold  up 
his  character  as  worthy  of  all  respect  and  admiration.  In  prosecut- 
ing his  labors  on  the  Pacific  shore  he  exhibited  a  constancy,  an 
energy,  and  a  rare  force  of  command  which  enabled  him  to  triumph 
over  almost  insuperable  difficulties.  These  qualities  would  have 
made  him  conspicuous  in  any  career.  He  possessed  all  the  ele- 
ments of  the  heroic  spirit.  Trials  which  bowed  down  the  strength 
of  strong  men  gave  his  feeble  frame  almost  superhuman  strength; 
and  he  accomplished,  in  the  midst  of  sickness  and  physical  de- 
pression, of  mutiny  and  desertion,  labors  that  those  most  highly 
favored  by  health  and  appliances  would  have  shrunk  from.  His 
example  appeals  to  us  with  irresistible  force.  How  can  we  yield 
to  despondency  witnessing  his  lion  heart  accomplishing  its  great 
purpose — giving  vigor  to  a  worn-out  frame,  and  snatching  success 
from  the  elements  of  defeat? 

McArthur  was  an  ornament  to  both  services  with  which  he  was 
connected — to  that  larger  service,  the  profession  of  his  youth,  in 
which  he  took  such  pride;  and  to  that  other  service  to  which  his 
maturer  years  have  been  applied.  He  has,  in  tlie  words  of  the 
resolutions,  for  ever  identified  his  name  with  the  progress  of  the 
Republic  in  the  West.  It  has  gone  into  history,  and  will  hence- 
forth be  associated  with  those  of  Decatur  and  of  Perry. 

The  resolutions  having  been  agreed  to  unanimously,  the  meet- 
ing adjourned  sine  die. 

(Signed)     A.  D.  BACHE,  Chairman. 

THORNTON  A.  JENKINS,  Secretary. 

Under  the  date  of  December,  1850,  and  published  probal)ly 
early  in  1851,  the  Coast  Survey  issued  a  small  pamphlet  en- 
titled "Notices  of  the  Western  Coast  of  the  United  States." 
This  pamphlet  contained  eight  notices,  all  of  them  by  McArthur 
and  Bartlett,  wliich  dealt  with  Pacific  Coast  matters.  A  Ijrief 
synopsis  of  these  notices  follows: 

"No.  1.  Sailing  Directions  to  Accompany  the  New  Chart 
of  the   Western   Coast  of   the  U.   S.   First  edition,  published 


264  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

December,  1850."  We  will  omit  the  general  directions  and 
the  directions  for  Sheet  No.  1,  and  part  of  Sheet  No.  2.  The 
remaining  directions  are  as  follows : 

"Klamath  river  has  15  feet  on  the  bar  at  low  water.  It  is  not 
difficult  of  entrance  with  a  good  breeze,  but  very  difficult  to  get 
out  of,  the  current  running  so  strong  that  sailing  vessels  must 
come  out  stern  foremost  to  be  steered.  There  is  a  staff  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  on  which  a  white  flag,  with  black  ball,  is 
generally  hoisted. 

"Port  St.  George  is  a  safe  anchorage  in  the  summer  at  the  point 
indicated  by  the  anchor.  The  reef  off  Cape  St.  George  consists 
of  rocky  islets.  The  in-shore  channel  is  good  and  clear,  and  shown 
by  the  track  of  the  schooner  Ewing.  From  Pelican  Bay,  with  a 
breeze,  take  this  channel. 

"From  Cape  St.  George  to  the  Toutounis,  or  Rogue's  river,  there 
are  no  special  dangers.  In  the  summer,  vessels  may  anchor  any- 
where along  the  coast,  and  there  are  landing  places  south  of  all 
the  rocky  points.  The  Toutounis,  or  Rogue's  river,  has  but  10 
feet  on  the  bar,  is  rapid,  and  passes  between  high  mountains. 

"Avoid  the  kelp,  which  indicates  rocks  under  water,  and  do  not 
approach  the  shore  at  night. 

"Ewing  harbori2  is  a  safe  anchorage  in  summer.  There  is  no  surt 
in  the  landing  cove." 

"From  Cape  St.  George  to  Cape  Orford,!^  the  coast  is  thickly 
inhabited  by  bands  of  wild  Indians,  and  care  is  necessary  not  to 
be  surprised  by  them. 

"There  is  a  reef  of  rocky  islets  off  Cape  Orford. 

"From  Cape  Orford  to  Cape  Arago,  there  is  no  danger  clear  of 
the  beach. 

"The  Kowes  river^^  has  not  yet  been  examined.  The  anchorage 
to  the  northward  of  the  bluff  is  good. 

"The  Umpqua  is  accessible  for  steamers,  and  for  small  sailing 
vessels  only,  under  very  favorable  circumstances. 

"When  off  Cape  Arago,  in  clear  weather,  the  high  sand  bluffs 
of  the  Umpqua  are  plainly  seen." 

"The  coast  from  the  Umpqua  river  to  the  Columbia  is  generally 
bordered  by  a  sand  beach,  with  white  sand  hills,  and  the  interior 
is  densely  wooded  with  fir  or  pine.  The  cliffs,  when  they  occur, 
are  bold,  but  afford  no  shelter  for  anchoring.  In  the  summer,  a 
vessel  may  anchor  in  twenty  fathoms  off  any  of  these  beaches. 

12  Ewing  Harbor  is  now  known  as  Port  Orford. 

13  Cape  Orford  is  now  Cape  Blanco. 

14  Kowes    River — Coos   Bay. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  265 

"The  Alseya,  Yaquinna,  and  Killamooki^  rivers  require  further 
examination. 

"In  proceeding  to  the  northward  in  winter,  make  Killamook 
head,  and  if  the  weather  renders  approach  to  the  bar  of  the  Co- 
lumbia undesirable,  keep  to  the  southward  of  Cape  Hancock,  (Dis- 
appointment,) as  the  current  is  northwardly  in  winter. 

"There  are  good  pilots  in  attendance  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  the  chart  of  the  entrance  and  bar  will  give  directions 
for  approaching.  The  pilots  are  usually  off  the  south  channel  in 
a  small  schooner  showing  a  fly  at  the  main.  If  not  seen,  fire  your 
guns. 

"Cape  Hancock  (Disappointment)  has  several  trees  trimmed  up, 
showmg  a  'broom  top,'  and  may  be  thus  known  from  the  cape  to 
the  northward  of  Shoal-Water  bay. 

"To  avoid  mistaking  Shoal-Water  bay  for  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  (the  soundings  being  similar),  make  Killamook  head. 
Never  omit  this  in  winter.  There  are  no  dangers  of  the  beach 
northward  of  Killamook  head,  and  the  soundings  in  approaching 
it  are  regular. 

"Note. — Notwithstanding  the  remarks  as  to  the  general  fact  of 
the  winds  prevailing  in  the  N.  W.  and  N.  N.  W.  quarter  during 
the  summer,  it  is  proper  to  state  that,  in  the  month  of  June,  1850, 
the  winds  to  the  northward  of  San  Francisco  were  light  from  the 
southward  and  westward,  with  showers  north  of  Mendocino  for 
the  whole  month,  and  the  coasters  ran  to  the  northward  with  all 
steering  sails. 

"It  is,  however,  yet  to  be  demonstrated  whether  June  is  a  regu- 
lar period  of  southerly  breezes." 

"No.  2.  Islands  and  Rivers."  McArthur  states  that  he 
considers  the  "Farrallones"  to  be  the  only  islands  deserving 
of  the  name  between  Monterey  and  the  Columbia  River,  and 
recommends  that  a  lighthouse  be  placed  on  them.  Under  the 
head  of  "Rivers,"  he  mentions  the  following  Oregon  streams: 

"The  Klamath. — On  the  bar  of  this  river  there  arc  17  feet  water 
at  mean  low  water.  The  channel  is  so  narrow,  and  the  current  so 
strong,  that  I  deem  it  unsafe  for  sailing  vessels.  Steamers  are  re- 
quired to  make  this  river  useful. 

"Rogue's  river. — This  river  has  10  feet  water  on  the  bar  at  the 
mouth,  at  mean  low  water;  but  it  is  too  narrow  for  sailing  vessels, 
as  there  is  scarcely  room  to  turn  in  the  channel. 

"The  Coquille  river  is  not  available  for  any  thing  larger  than 
small  boats  and  canoes. 


15  The   early   spellings   of   Tillamucjk    were   nil    with    a    K,    iiulir.itiiiK    'i    KUltiir.il 
pronunciation. 


266  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

"The  Kowes. — This  river  was  not  so  closely  examined,  but  to 
judge  b}'  appearances  at  the  mouth,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  express 
the  opinion  that  it  will  be  found  to  be  available  and  very  useful 
for  steamers. 

"The  Umpqua. — I  crossed  the  bar  of  this  river  in  the  second 
cutter,  in  14  feet  water,  and  passed  into  three  fathoms  on  the  inside 
of  the  bar,  the  rollers  breaking  at  the  time  all  the  way  across  the 
channel.  The  channel,  in  my  opinion,  is  practicable  for  steamers, 
but  dangerous  to  sailing  vessels,  unless  under  very  favorable  cir- 
cumstances. 

"The  remaining  rivers  to  the  northward  can  only  be  entered  by 
small  boats,  except,  perhaps,  the  'Yaquinna,'  which  might  be  en- 
tered by  vessels  of  a  larger  class. 

"In  making  my  report,  with  regard  to  the  navigation  of  these 
rivers,  I  beg  leave  to  be  considered  as  only  giving  my  opinion,  un- 
less in  case  when  I  mention  particularly  the  depth  of  water,  then, 
of  course,  I  speak  authoritatively.  I  would  recommend,  however, 
an  earlj'  and  detailed  examination  of  all;  and  for  this  purpose  a 
steamer  is  indispensable.  All  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted 
by  your  obedient  servant." 

"No.  3.  Columbia  River,  Oregon."  This  is  the  first  hydro- 
graphic  notice  ever  pubhshed  by  the  Coast  Survey  for  the 
Pacific  Coast,  and  should  be  reproduced  in  full  on  that  account. 
It  follovirs :  ■ 

"Sailing  directions  for  entering  the  Columbia  river^**  as  far  as  the 
harbor  of  Astoria,  by  Lieut.  Commanding  W.  P.  McArthur, 
U.  S.  N.,  Assistant  in  the  Coast  Survey. 

"It  is  best  under  all  circumstances  to  have  a  pilot;  but  should 
it  be  necessary  to  enter  the  river  without  one,  the  directions  for 
the  north  channel  are:  First,  bring  Sand  Island  in  range  with 
Point  Ellice,  and  stand  in  towards  Sand  Island,  passing  the  south 
end  of  the  north  breaker;  when  Cape  Disappointment  and  Leading- 
in-Cliff  are  in  range,  haul  up  towards  the  Cape,  keeping  Leading- 
in-Cliff  in  range  until  nearly  abreast  the  Cape.  Give  the  Cape  a 
small  berth,  and  continue  on  towards  Baker's  Bay  until  the  second 
island  in  the  bay  can  be  seen;  then  keep  off,  and  with  the  second 
island  and  Cape  in  range  astern,  it  will  pass  clear  of  the  north  part 
of  the  Middle  Sands.  As  soon  as  the  soundings  shoal  on  this  course, 
keep  off  towards  Sand  Island,  and  passing  close  by  the  east  end 


i6The  Columbia  River  chart,  on  a  scile  of  1-4,000  or  about  one  inch  to  five- 
eighths  of  a  statute  mile,  may  be  found  in  the  accompanying  papers  to  the  annual 
report  of  the  Superintendent  of  the   Coast   Survey  for   1851. 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  267 

of  the  island,  get  the  beacon  on  the  island  in  range  with  a  tree  on 
Cape  Disappointment  (which  is  trimmed  up  like  an  umbrella), 
and  with  that  range  astern,  stand  on  up  the  bay  until  the  custom- 
house is  on  with  Young's  Point,  when  haul  to  the  east,  and  keep 
the  last  range  on  till  nearly  up  with  Young's  Point.  Pass  along 
the  south  shore,  running  by  the  lead  until  up  to  Astoria. 

"To  enter  the  south  channel,  bring  the  beacon  on  Sand  Island 
to  bear  north  40  degrees  east,  (true,)  and  Point  Adams  on  the  peak, 
which  can  be  seen  east  of  Point  EUice,  and  called  ']'nn  Crow,' 
(upon  which  there  is  a  notable  tree.)  nearly  in  range,  the  vessel 
will  be  then  on  the  bar  in  the  south  channel  in  the  best  water. 
Steer  for  the  beacon,  taking  care  not  to  sag  to  the  eastward;  rather 
keep  close  to  the  breakers  on  the  Sand  Island  shore.  Pass  close 
to  Sand  Island,  and  fall  into  the  range  of  the  beacon  with  the 
trimmed  tree  on  Cape  Disappointment,  and  proceed  as  already 
directed. 

"The  best  time  for  entering -is  on  the  first  or  last  of  the  ebb  tide. 
The  last  of  the  ebb  tide  is  preferable  in  either  channel  " 

No.  4  consists  of  notes  on  the  new  chart  of  the  Columbi.i 
River,  by  Lieutenant  Commanding-  McArthur,  and  is  worded 
as  follows : 

"Notes  on  the  new  chart  of  Columbia  river,  from  a  preliminary 
survey,  by  Lieut.  Commanding  W.  P.  McArthur,  U.  S.  N.,  As- 
sistant in  the  Coast  Survey. 

U.  S.  Surveying  Schooner  Ewing, 

San  Francisco,  September  25,  1850. 

Sir: 

******** 

"When  comparing  our  chart  with  that  of  the  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion, the  changes  of  the  channels  and  shoals  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river  will  be  found  to  be  numerous  and  considerable. 
Sand  Island  is  nearly  a  mile  further  to  the  westward  now  than  it 
was  in  1840-'41.  The  north  channel  seems  to  be  gradually  filling 
up,  whilst  the  new  south  channed  is  becoming  both  larger  and 
deeper.  This  change  will  go  on  until  some  violent  storm  will  throw 
up  the  sand  again,  and  upon  subsiding  leave  the  water  of  the  river 
to  find  a  new  channel. 

"I  have  examined  all  the  charts  that  have  been  made  of  tlie 
Columbia  river  from  the  time  of  its  discovery  to  tlie  present,  and 
find  that  there  has  been  continued  changes  going  on,  but  at  all  times 
has   there   been   a   good   deep   channel   at   the   mouth   of   liiis   river. 


268  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

To  these  changes  in  the  channel  is  to  be  attributed  the  great  dread 
which  navigators  have  had  of  the  Columbia. 

"There  is  now  a  good  Pilot  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and 
I  have  recommended  a  Light-house  on  Cape  Disappointment,  and 
five  buoys  to  be  placed  in  such  a  manner  as  best  to  point  out  the 
channel.  I  would  also  recommend  that  these  be  placed  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  Pilot,  who  will  always  know  when  any 
change  in  the  channel  takes  place,  and  he  can  move  them  to  such 
positions  as  he  might  think  best.  By  this  means,  the  dangers  and 
delays  attending  the  navigation  of  the  Columbia  would  be  vastly 
diminished. 

"The  greatly  increasing  commerce  of  Oregon  demands  that  these 
improvements  be  made  immediately.  The  more  especially  since 
the  Columbia  is  the  most  important  portion  of  Oregon  for  the  pur- 
suits of  commerce. 

"After  crossing  the  bar,  there  is  a  good,  unobstructed  channel 
for  ships  up  as  far  as  Astoria,  beyond  which  Tongue  Point  bar 
presents  quite  a  serious  obstacle  to  vessels  drawing  sixteen  or 
even  fifteen  feet  water.  The  channel  over  this  bar  is  very  crooked 
and  shallow;  vessels  seldom  pass  it  without  delay.  Once  beyond 
Tongue  Point  bar,  vessels  can  easily  go  up  the  Columbia  as  far 
as  Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  Columbia,  and  Portland,  on  the  Wil- 
lammette  river.  I  am  of  the  opinion,  however,  that  the  time  is  at 
hand  when  the  navigation  of  the  Columbia  river  will  be  conducted 
by  steam  vessels  as  far  down  as  Astoria. 

"The  harbor  of  Astoria  is  perfectly  safe  and  capacious;  abund- 
ance of  wood  and  water  can  easily  be  procured.  The  holding 
ground  is  good. 

"Within  the  last  eighteen  months,  more  vessels  have  crossed 
the  Columbia  river  bar  than  had  crossed  it  perhaps  in  all  time  past, 
and  during  that  time  no  vessel  has  received  the  slightest  injury; 
and  but  few  have  met  with  much  delay. 

"I  would  request  that  our  Chart  of  the  Columbia  may  be  pub- 
lished as  soon  as  may  be  practicable." 

I  am,  very  respectfully  and  truly  yours, 
(Signed)  WM.  P.  McARTHUR, 

Lieut.  Com'g  and  Assistant  U.  S.  Coast  Survey. 

"To  Professor  A.  D.  Bache, 

Superintendent  U.  S.  Coast  Survey,  Washington,  D.  C." 

"Note. — This  Chart  will  be  published  at  the  Coast  Survey  oflFice 
about  the  tenth  of  March,  1851. 

"No.  5.  Columbia  River,  Oregon."  This  note  by  Bartlett 
relates  to  the  draught  of  vessels  that  may  be  taken  over  the 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  269 

Columbia  River  bar,  and  the  statement  is  made  that  vessels 
drawing  17  feet  could  be  taken  over  the  south  bar  at  Yx  flood 
or  ^  ebb  without  the  least  risk.    In  addition,  this  notice  says : 

"In  addition,  I  would  state  that  my  experience  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia,  has  convinced  me  that  the  south  channel  is  the  prac- 
ticable commercial  channel  of  that  river  for  certainty  and  safety, 
with  the  additional  advantage  of  accomplishing  the  passage,  to  or 
from  the  river,  without  waiting  for  a  particular  wind.  Ships  fre- 
quently pass  the  bar  inward  in  fifteen  minutes  after  receiving  their 
pilot,  and  outward  in  thirty  minutes  after  getting  their  anchors. 

"A  disabled  ship,  that  can  be  sailed  so  as  to  have  good  steerage 
way,  can  pass  over  the  south  bar  in  safety,  when  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  get  her  in  by  the  north  channel. 

"From  the  18th  of  April,  to  the  5th  of  August,  1850,  there  was 
no  day  that  the  south  channel  was  not  practicable  for  vessels,  and 
was  in  daily  use. 

"I  crossed  the  bar  (south  channel)  in  the  pilot-boat  'Mary 
Taylor'  during  the  'heaviest  bar'  that  occurred  within  the  above 
named  period,  beating  out  with  the  wind  ahead. 

"The  principal  pilot  of  the  bar  is  Captain  White,  late  pilot  of 
New  York  harbor;  he  is  very  intelligent,  and  competent  to  his 
duties,  and  no  accident  has  occurred  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
since  September,  1849,  when  he  commenced  his  duties  as  pilot. 

"The  commerce  of  the  Columbia  river — the  great  artery  of  the 
fertile  valleys  of  the  Columbia  and  its  tributaries — is  rapidly  in- 
creasing; the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company's  steamers  now 
proceed  to  Astoria,  and  return  to  San  Francisco  with  the  monthly 
mails.  A  small  steamer  has  been  built  at  Astoria,  and  is  now 
employed  in  the  river  trade.  A  second  steamer  was  on  the  stocks 
when  we  left  the  river. 

"Regular  lines  of  sailing  and  steam-propeller  vessels,  are  also 
established  between  San  Francisco  and  the  various  towns  on  the 
Columbia;  also  to  Nisqually,  and  other  points  in  Puget's  sound." 

No.  6  relates  to  the  lights  deemed  necessary  for  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay  and  its  approaches. 

No.  7  relates  to  the  report  of  Bartlett  on  the  proposed  light- 
house at  Cape  Disappointment,  which  is  as  follows : 

Washington,  November  29,  1850. 
"Sir:      In   answer   to  your  inquiries   as  to  the  character  of  the 
Light-house,    which    should    be    erected    at    Cape    Hancock    or    Dis- 
appointment, at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  Oregon  Terri- 


270  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

tory,  and  for  information  as  to  the  locality  on  which  it  should  be 
placed,  &c.: 

"I  have  the  honor  to  state,  that  Cape  Hancock  or  Disappoint- 
ment, at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  Oregon  Territory, 
where  it  is  proposed  by  a  late  act  of  Congress  to  erect  the  prin- 
cipal Light-house  for  that  river,  is  a  bold  cliff  of  columnar  basalt, 
rising  perpendicularly  from  the  sea  to  variable  heights  of  from 
200  to  300  feet,  terminating  in  unequal  rolling  summits,  covered 
with  a  rich  and  fertile  soil. 

"These  summits  vary  also  in  width  from  ten  to  fifty  feet  at  the 
apex,  whence  they  slope  by  a  quick  descent  to  the  northward; 
the  northern  or  inrshore  face  of  the  hills  being  covered  by  a  dense 
growth  of  gigantic  pine,  alder,  and  other  trees,  with  a  thick  growth 
of  vines,  'Salmon  Berry,'  and  other  shrubbery. 

"The  summit  of  the  sea-cliffs  (which  are  not  covered  by  the 
forest)  is  the  proper  position  for  locating  the  Light-house,  say 
within  two  to  four  hundred  yards  to  the  westward  of  'Broom  Sta- 
tion,' as  given  in  our  triangulation  of  the  river:  should  the  Tower 
be  placed  there,  it  will  show  the  light  from  the  lanthorn  around 
three-fourths  of  the  horizon,  without  the  necessity  of  felling  the 
trees  to  the  northward. 

"In  this  position,  the  base  of  the  Tower  will  be  about  250  feet 
above  high  water  mark,  and  should  the  Tower  be  raised  80  feet 
to  the  deck  of  the  Lanthorn  (and  in  my  opinion  it  should  not  be 
less)  on  a  base  of  25  feet  diameter,  it  will  be  a  prominent  land 
mark,  for  making  the  Cape  in  the  day  time. 

"The  lanthorn  or  light,  which  is  to  be  placed  on  the  tower, 
should  be  of  a  power  not  less  than  the  best  Light  on  Navesink; 
in  other  words,  a  Marine  light  of  the  first  power. 

"The  Tower  should  be  constructed  of  fire-proof  materials,  and 
no  wood  whatever  should  be  admitted  into  the  construction  of  the 
building;  as  there  is  at  all  times  much  danger  of  the  forest  being 
fired  to  the  northward,  which,  in  such  a  case,  would  inevitably 
destroy  the  building. 

"From  the  cove  in  Baker's  Bay,  where  the  materials  would  be 
landed,  the  distance  is  about  1,000  yards  by  a  path,  now  greatly 
obstructed  by  huge  trees  which  have  fallen  across  it.  It  must 
ever  be  a  difficult  matter  to  transport  any  great  amount  of  bulk 
or  weight  to  the  summit;  a  good  road  must  first  be  made.  Whether 
the  tower  is  constructed  of  wood,  iron,  or  brick,  the  material  must 
be  transported  in  small  parcels. 

"When  such  a  tower  as  I  have  contemplated  is  lighted  up  by  a 
light  of  the  first  power,  it  will  be  clearly  visible  for  a  distance  of 
nine  leagues  at  sea,  from  the  N.  W.  by  the  W.  and  S.  W.  to  the 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  271 

south,  and  by  the  east  for  the  entire  width  of  the  river,  and  for  the 
same  distance  up  the  Columbia. 

"A  light  on  Cape  Hancock,  or  Disappointment,  will  be  of  vast 
importance  to  the  rapidly  increasing  commerce  of  Oregon,  as  it 
will  enable  all  vessels  to  approach  the  coast  boldly,  and  then  to 
maintain  their  positions  on  pilot-ground  till  daylight,  when  they 
will  at  once  be  taken  into  port  by  highly  intelligent  pilots  now 
fully  established  there. 

"Very  respectfully,  sir,  I  have  the  honor  to  be.  your  ob't  serv't, 
"(Signed)  WASHINGTON  A.   BARTLETT, 

"Lieut.  U.  S.  N.,  Assistant  Coast  Survey. 
"To  Professor  A.  D.  Bache, 

"Superintendent  U.  S.  Coast  Survey." 

No.  8  is  Lieut.  Commanding  McArthur's  report  on  the 
establishment  of  Hghts  at  "Cape  Flattery  and  New  Dungen- 
ness,  Oregon."    This  report  is  as  follows : 

"U.  S.  Surveying  Schooner  Ewing, 

"San  Francisco,  September  25,  1850. 

"Dear  Sir:  The  portion  of  your  instructions  relating  to  the  in- 
vestigation of  the  necessity,  or  otherwise,  of  light-houses  at  Cape 
Flattery  and  New  Dungenness,  has  been  attended  to,  and  I  beg  to 
report  as  follows: 

"I  have  carefully  examined  the  roadstead  of  New  Dungenness, 
and  find  it  to  be  safe  and  capacious.  The  holding  ground  is  ex- 
cellent, and  it  is  well  protected  from  all  winds  except  those  from 
the  N.  E. ;  a  quarter  from  which  it  seldom  or  never  blows  so  hard 
as  to  endanger  shipping. 

"The  ingress  and  egress  arc  remarkably  convenient. 

"A  point,  two  and  a  fourth  miles  in  length,  extends  from  the 
main  land,  and  completely  shelters  the  anchorage  from  the  strong 
and  prevalent  northwest  winds.  This  point  is  quite  low  and  nar- 
row, and  not  discernible  at  night.  On  the  extremity  of  this  point, 
I  would  recommend  a  light-house  of  the  first  power  to  be  built; 
the  shaft  to  be  not  less  than  80  feet  in  height.  Tims  situated,  it 
would  guard  navigators  against  the  spit,  as  well  as  point  out  the 
anchorage.  The  entrance  is  entirely  clear;  but,  as  the  profile  of 
the  bottom  is  so  precipitous,  I  would  advise  navigators  to  come  to 
anchor  in  not  less  than  10  to  13  fathoms  water. 

"A  light-house  is  much  needed  also  at  'Cape  Flattery';  and  1 
would  recommend  that  it  be  situated  on  'Tatoochi  island,'  a  small 
island   almost  touching  tlie  northwest  extremity  of  Cape   Flattery. 

"To  vessels  bound   from   seaward,  a  light-house  on   this  island 


272  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

would  be  of  much  assistance.  It  would  enable  them  to  enter  the 
straits,  when  the  absence  of  a  light  would  frequently  compel  them 
to  remain  at  sea  till  daylight.  Once  inside  the  straits,  vessels  are 
comparatively  secure. 

"The  advantage  of  having  the  light-house  situated  on  the  island 
instead  of  on  the  extremity  of  the  Cape  is,  that  it  would  serve  as  a 
guide  to  vessels  seeking  Neap  or  Scarborough's  harbor,  a  small  but 
secure  harbor  of  refuge  about  four  miles  inside  the  straits.  Strong 
contrary  currents  will  cause  navigators  to  seek  this  little  harbor 
quite  frequently. 

"Traffic  is  very  much  on  the  increase  in  Oregon;  and,  while  it 
must  be  admitted  that  the  great  increase  has  been  on  the  Colum- 
bia river,  yet  it  has  also  much  improved  on  the  Sound.  Lumber 
has  become  an  extensive  article  of  export,  and  it  is  quite  probable 
that  there  is  no  country  on  the  face  of  the  globe  where  it  is  so 
abundant,  so  good,  and  so  convenient. 

"It  seems  to  me  that  the  Government  should  be  informed  that 
ships  are  continually  arriving  at  different  points  of  the  Sound  to 
obtain  spars  and  lumber,  (they  of  course  take  the  best  and  most 
convenient,)  and  it  might  be  deemed  advisable  on  the  part  of  the 
Government  to  take  means  to  arrest  these  depredations.  I  had 
occasion  to  witness  them,  and  was  called  upon  by  General  John 
Adair,  the  collector  for  the  district  of  Oregon,  to  assist  him  in 
enforcing  the  revenue  laws,  and  arrest  even  foreign  vessels  from 
smuggling  and  cutting  our  timber.  See  his  report  on  the  subject  to 
the  honorable  Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  &c.,  truly  yours, 
"(Signed)  WM.  P.  McARTHUR, 

"Lieut.  Commanding  and  Assistant  U.  S.  Coast  Survey. 

"To  Professor  A.  D.  Bache, 

"Superintendent  U.  S.  Coast  Survey,  Washington,  D.  C." 

Among  the  papers  of  Lieut.  Commanding-  McArthur  was 
found  a  letter  apparently  addressed  to  him,  and  signed  by- 
George  Gibbs,  dated  at  Astoria,  November  23,  1850.  There 
seems  no  doubt  but  that  it  was  written  by  the  pioneer  ethnol- 
ogist of  Oregon.    It  follows : 

"Dear  Sir :  Mr.  Frost  forgot  to  procure  from  you  a  power 
of  attorney  to  sell  lots  at  this  place  when  he  was  in  San  Fran- 
cisco. It  is  very  desirable  that  some  one  should  possess  the 
power  of  sale  here,  as  it  would  take  too  long  to  send  around  to 
the  various  owners  in  case  a  purchaser  appeared.  Will  you 
be  good  enough  therefore  to  forward  one  and  in  case  you  write 
to  Mr.  Bartlett,  to  request  a  similar  power  from  him.    I  intend 


The  Pacific  Coast  Survey  273 

soon  after  the  steamer  is  out  to  prepare  some  papers  which 
will  place  the  affairs  of  the  property  in  better  order  and  will 
advise  you  of  them.  When  Mr.  DeWitt  was  here  I  was  in 
some  doubt  whether  Frost  had  deeded  to  you  the  exact  amount 
he  intended  to.  I  now  propose  to  divide  it  into  shares,  which 
will  be  a  common  divisor  of  every  man's  interest,  and  that 
stock  or  scrip  be  issued  accordingly.  Please  let  me  know  what 
you  think  of  the  proposal,  and  if  you  can  assent  to  it  on  Mr. 
Bartlett's  behalf.  If  aye,  whether  I  shall  issue  your  scrip  to 
you  jointly  or  severally.  Very  truly  yours,  etc., 

George  Gibbs. 

"I  see  a  letter  in  the  Pacific  News  of  Oct.  24,  signed  by  a 
man  named  Morse,  puffing  Pacific  City  in  a  most  preposterous 
style.  He  is  a  person  whom  Dr.  White  brought  in  on  the 
Ocean  Bird  to  lecture  up  his  town  throughout  Oregon.  The 
letter  was  written  before  the  animal  had  ever  seen  the  country. 
I  understand  also  that  another  of  his  new  importations,  a 
"Professor  Jackman,"  has  written  something  in  a  similar  vein, 
but  attacking  Astoria,  and  a  Weekly  Cal.  Courier  of  some- 
time since  had  an  article  signed  by  Edmonds  and  Edwards 
stating  that  they  had  piloted  in  or  out  over  200  vessels  in  three 
years,  and  that  Bakers  Bay  was  the  only  good  harbor.  I  be- 
lieve that  you  yourself  know  that  this  statement  is  false  on  the 
face  of  it,  as  that  number  of  passages  of  the  bar  did  not  occur 
previous  to  White's  coming  here  and  that  Latty  and  Reve  were 
the  pilots.  Now  is  it  worth  while  to  answer  these  things  over 
two  or  three  signatures,  or  say  a  dozen?  I  have  only  the 
Pacific  News  of  the  24th  in  my  possession.  If  you  think  that 
I  can  procure  the  other  two  papers,  please  send  them.  Jack- 
man's  article  was  in  the  News  sometime  in  October — Edmonds' 
in  the  Courier  of  I  believe  the  same  month.  It  struck  me  that 
as  there  was  one  responsible  or  at  any  rate  actual  name,  it 
might  be  time  to  pounce  on  Dr.  White  as  a  humbug.  But  you 
can  best  judge  from  your  position  whether  he  is  effecting  any- 
thing. I  have  sent  by  this  mail  two  memorials  to  Thurston 
against  the  removal  of  the  Custom  house,  and  have  one  on  the 
desk  signed  by  shipmasters  and  owners." 

In  1876  the  United  States  government  built  the  schooner 
McArthnr  at  Mare  Island,  California,  and  named  her  in  honor 
of  Lieut.  Commanding  William  Pope  McArthur.  For  the 
past  39  years  the  McArthur  has  been  in  prnctically  continuous 
service  in  the  work  of  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  on  the 
Pacific  Coast.  The  vessel  is  115  feet  long  and  of  220  gross 
tons,  and  has  long  since  served  her  usefulness.     In  his  last 


274  Lewis  A.  McArthur 

annual  report,  Secretary  of  Commerce  Redfield  strongly  con- 
demns the  government  for  requiring  men  to  go  to  sea  in  such 
a  ship. 

In  1886,  Lieutenant  James  M.  Helm,  U.  S.  N.,  surveying 
certain  parts  of  the  Alexander  archipelago  in  southeastern 
Alaska,  was  in  command  of  the  McArthur,  and  he  named 
McArthur  Peak,  2239  feet  high,  on  Kuiu  Island,  in  honor  of 
his  vessel,  and  he  also  named  Port  McArthur  on  the  same 
island  for  the  McArthur. 

The  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  named  McArthur  Reef,  in 
Sumner  Strait,  off  the  mouth  of  Clarence  Strait,  in  the  Alex- 
ander Archipelago,  for  the  schooner  McArthur. 


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